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The Oxford Burger Company, Cowley Road, Oxford

I can still taste the garlic, nearly a week later. Since then my children have shunned me, Mr Greedy wrinkles his nose in distaste every time I speak and the school mums scurry off whenever I appear.

I don't know why the waitress didn't just inject me with it instead and be done with it.

It was my fault. I ordered the garlic mayo, but my God it was so strong the hairs on the back of my neck plaited themselves after the first mouthful.

But do I regret it? Not for a second, because my burger and chips at The Oxford Organic Burger Company on Cowley Road was great.

It's Clinton Pugh's new baby, just to make sure he's covered all the bases on his culinary map, having done Italian and Moroccan already at Cocos and The Kaz Bar respectively, as well as The Lemon Tree in Oxford.

And yes, he knows there's lots of competition but it doesn't faze him at all, and having eaten there I'm not surprised. Delicious is all I can say. Well thought out and delicious, if expensive. I can't wait to go back.

HOW DOES IT LOOK? The concept is simple. Gut the old Moonlight Tandoori and deck it out in typical Clinton style, fancy loos, big open interiors with lots of mirrors and sofas and a flashy bar, but make the restaurant side very simple.

Small wooden tables, a menu with no starters and only waffles or ice cream for dessert, but the biggest and best burger section you've ever come across with nine beef choices, plus chicken, pork, fish, vegy and children's burgers.

WHAT'S SO SPECIAL? The buns are locally made using Shipton Mill organic flour and the burgers come from Aldens of Oxford. Either way, they're fantastic, juicy and just what the doctor ordered. We had the bacon burger with blue cheese and the jalapeno bean burger with guacamole.

HOW MUCH? They don't come cheap - all these locally sourced ingredients add up because the burgers come priced between £7-£10.50, with chips an extra £2.50.

I hate paying extra for chips, it makes me grit my teeth. But they were so thin and delicious I gave them the benefit of the doubt. But bear in mind that adding on the extras like cheese or guacamole at £2 a pop and then £1 for garlic mayo and you're looking at £15 per meal.

We then ordered the knickerbocker glory which I nearly downed in one it was so fantastic and felt like an extra in Grease.

THUMBS UP? Given a choice between here and the Gourmet Burger Kitchen on George Street or Tootsies at the Oxford Castle, The Oxford Organic Burger Company wins hands down. The waitresses are gorgeous and helpful and the food is great. But don't go there for lunch. it's only open from 4pm during the week and all day at weekends.

12:32pm Thursday 17th July 2008

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