Comment

Nestled between Heli Beds and Oxford Interiors in the West Way Shopping Centre in Botley, Rocococor doesn't seem promising.

The precinct looks like the kind of backdrop beloved of Punk and New Wave bands in the late 70s/early 80s. But every time I pass, it seems busy, so I decided it was way past time that I found out what many others seem to know already.

WHAT DID YOU CHOOSE?

We began with a shared starter of tiger prawns and ordered the chicken and chips for our two-year-old, Molly, who doesn't do messing about with starters. I had a chicken risotto for my main and my wife ordered a di capria (goat's cheese and red onion) pizza.

We weren't going to have dessert but the lemon cheesecake and chocolate fudge brownies proved irresistible. Anyway, Molly had a scoop of chocolate ice cream included in the price of her main and it seemed unfair to make her eat alone.

WHAT WAS IT LIKE?

Good with a capital G. In fact I would go so far as to say 'great' and I don't normally do gushing reviews.

The tiger prawns, while slightly overpriced at £7.95 for three, came with a good helping of guacamole and sweet chilli sauce and whetted the appetite superbly.

My risotto was perfectly seasoned and was the right texture - something many chefs get wrong when they opt for the porridge consistency.

My wife's pizza was thin crust and they hadn't been stingy on the topping. I have to confess to pinching a couple of slices.

We wouldn't normally do pudding on a week night, but it was a top shout. My cheesecake was sharp without being eye-watering and from the noises and protective arm gestures my wife made as she polished of the brownie, I think it was safe to say that she enjoyed them.

Perhaps the only downer was the chicken and chips for Molly. She loved the chips and I had to agree with her that they were good fries. But, although the chicken was well cooked, it was rather dry for a child, as it had no sauce.

It could have done with just a bit of healthy stuff on the side - she leapt on the tomato and cucumber we gave for her from our side salad.

AND THE SERVICE?

Excellent. We started of with a very efficient and welcoming waiter who carried the air of a manager, and ended with a young lady with a top smile and good habit of making Molly smile.

ANYTHING ELSE TO NOTE?

Free parking within 50m (try saying that anywhere else in Oxford). Despite the fact we sat down to eat at 5.45pm on a Tuesday, the restaurant started filling up and had a nice relaxed atmosphere, helped by dollops of Louis Armstrong, Curtis Mayfield and selected Motown greats.

VERDICT: If this was in Jericho, Summertown or East Oxford, Rococo would make a killing every night. It's encouraging that an often neglected side of Oxford has something this good. Try it out.

THE BILL

Tiger prawns £6.75

Di capria pizza £7.95

Chicken risotto £5.95

Chicken and chips (child's portion including ice cream):£3.95

Salad £2.25

Fudge brownie £3.90

Lemon cheesecake £4.95

Coke £1.75

Peroni£2.95

2:59pm Thursday 1st May 2008

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