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The Thatch, Thame
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| The Hoopers at work |
Apart from the woman in the red leather zip-up dress sporting a purple patent handbag (you would have thought she could afford a mirror), the rest of the diners were fairly ordinary.
I say ordinary, because I was half expecting rabid groupies, their vote for Jane and Jeremy' T-shirts still intact, their fingers sore from text voting.
But apart from a mild wave of curiosity when Jane appeared to escort customers to their tables, and the odd fan who had somehow escaped from the tour bus, The Thatch seems to have opened without too much fuss.
Those of you who watched it will know that Jane and Jeremy Hooper were the winners of Raymond Blanc's BBC2 show The Restaurant where contestants were whittled down week-by-week in X-Factor style. Jane mans the fort while Jeremy runs the kitchens.
SO WHAT DID YOU THINK?
They were doing such a good job, I felt a slight sense of anticlimax when Jane arrived to guide me to my table.
Is that it, I thought as she took my order? Surely we'd get a Big Brother-style gush of emotion or some backstage gossip?
But no, all we got was gentle efficiency, lovely food, and a discreet yet cheerful atmosphere.
I was relieved when the woman in the zip-up dress walked past again, just to remind me it wasn't a dream. This air of calm is obviously why Jane and Jeremy won and were chosen to run a restaurant of their choice, as they look like they've been doing it for years.
Jeremy, the ex-marine, emerged from the kitchen at the end of the meal, marched up to my table and on being told why I was there barked: "Journalist?"
"Uh yes," I stuttered.
"What did you have?" he bellowed. Fumbling with our menus, we told him we'd chosen the smoked haddock and whisky soup, the paté de campagne, the Roquefort soufflé and the duck.
"How was the duck?" Jeremy asked Mr Greedy.
"A very generous portion indeed," Mr Greedy said, not daring to meet his eye.
"Yes, the duck breasts are coming out very large at the moment," Jeremy agreed, before dismissing us and moving on.
AND HOW WAS THE FOOD?
The soup was lovely, but could have been more subtle, the smoky fish taste overpowered by salt and the whisky was buried. The paté was delicious and beautifully presented, with sourdough bread and home-made pickle.
The soufflé wasn't as soft as we'd have hoped and the Roquefort flavour was masked, but the roast Gressingham duck breast, potato and turnip dauphinoise, jasmine and citrus sauce was exceptional - and the accompanying veg a wonderful example of classic dishes with a twist.
For dessert we had the chocolate delice with hazelnut sauce, which was sensational (a kind of posh Double Decker chocolate bar), and we made room for the memorable cheese plate.
VERDICT: A great little unpretentious restaurant. And knowing that it was being run by a couple of amateurs who were not only managing to fend off the media and prove their worth but also making a real go of it, left me full of admiration. Jade Goody eat your heart out.
EXTRA FACT: The bus from Oxford stops directly opposite The Thatch, if you don't fancy driving.
- THE BILL
- Pate £5.50
- Soup £4.50
- Duck £14.50
- Souffle £10.50
- Choc delice £5.50
- Cheese £8
- 2 G&Ts £6.40
- 2 glasses house wine £10
- Water £3
- = £67.90
3:52pm Thursday 17th April 2008
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