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The Tandem, Kennington 01865 735386

When is a parking space not a parking space? Answer: when it's a tree.

Quite why someone had decided to mark out a parking bay when there was a tree growing within the demarcation lines escapes me, but I suppose if we'd had a Smart Car or a Mini, it wouldn't have mattered. But a medium-sized Peugeot hatchback meant a couple of feet of car had to stick out at the front.

No matter. My friend and I were at the Tandem - part of the Hungry Horse group - for what we assumed would be a bargain meal, for this is one of the cheap-as-chips pub chains, along with JD Wetherspoons and John Barras.

WHAT WAS IT LIKE?

A bit odd, at first, because although these places tend to pitch themselves at families, and the pub looked amiable enough, there was a sign by the front door urging people to ring the police if they saw drug dealing.

And that was next to another sign advertising a conjurer, who apparently visited on alternate Sunday afternoons. Quirky!

Inside, we were assured of a warm welcome - in fact, the pub was swelteringly hot, with a couple of customers fanning themselves with the numerous laminated menus and flyers that are a hallmark of such places.

But it was cheap and there was no sign of any underhand activity to spoil the evening.

People were chatting merrily, one or two punters were frittering away their cash on on the quiz machines near the bar. And the widescreen telly was showing some chirpy 1990s dance music videos.

HOW CHEAP WAS IT?

Try £5.99 for a bottle - yes, a bottle - of wine, although the more expensive stuff cost nearer £10. You could get two meals for £8 before 7pm, and there were additional discounts for over-60s (Monday-Friday before 2pm). The main courses ranged in price from £4.50-£7, depending on size.

The only thing that wasn't so cheap was the beer I ordered (Newcastle Brown Ale) - although, to be fair, it was priced lower than at most pubs.

And the Tandem does cut the prices of some of its beers on Friday afternoons and weekends, if you're prepared to swig the likes of John Smiths or Fosters.

WHAT ABOUT THE FOOD?

My friend, who'd recommended the pub in the first place and warned it served big helpings, asked for chicken fillet topped with bacon and melted cheese, with chips and peas.

I preferred the sound of a smaller portion of beef pie (I'm getting into pies, me) with mashed spuds.

My meal was decent enough, even if the peas were dry and almost certainly had seen their nutritional content blasted into oblivion.

The pie was filling and came with a little jug of dark gravy.

My friend couldn't quite finish his plate, but said it was good value.

WHAT ABOUT DESSERTS?

I asked for two shot glasses of chocolate mousse with cream and a few flecks of Cadbury's Flake sprinkled on it for 65p each, as I wasn't in the mood for a heavy pudding.

My friend decided to go for what seemed to be a slightly soggy, but tasty, portion of trifle.

AND THE SERVICE?

No complaints, but as with JD Wetherspoons places, we had to go to the bar to order our food. Which is no great hardship, especially when the food is so affordable.

VERDICT: If you want to save money, and don't mind a no-frills experience and walking to the bar to order, put this place on your list of places to visit.

2:41pm Thursday 31st January 2008

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