Site Logo

A pampering in Tunisia

4:43pm Wednesday 9th January 2008

Despite the long-awaited Christmas break I, like many others, found myself hitting the New Year in rather poor form. My skin was pasty, I'd put on more than a couple of extra seasonal pounds and, quite frankly, I was exhausted.

After weeks of festive fun, late-night parties and too much good food it was clear that a detox was the only way forward.

But, as running round the block in the freezing cold while surviving on a diet of cabbage soup really didn't appeal, an alternative detoxifying plan was needed.

My answer to this dilemma? A five-day shopping and spa trip to Tunisia.

With its white sandy beaches, an average winter temperature of 21C and a flight time of only two-and-a-half hours, Tunisia is the perfect hot spot for a long, relaxing, winter weekend away.

A great way to start your escape is to begin in, or near, the capital, Tunis.

My hotel, the Dar Said was situated in Sidi Bou Said, a beautiful 13th century village overlooking the Gulf of Tunis.

The village is only a 20-minute drive from the city centre and offers a peaceful haven of beauty which will ease your mind into a state of calm and serenity.

The Dar hotel chain has a number of residences dotted around Tunisia. They pride themselves on offering establishments which embody character and comfort.

Each room is very individual and the quaint charm won't fail to impress.

But best of all, my hotel was located five minutes away from the local Hammam, the venue for my first authentic spa treatment.

A Hammam is basically a very large steam room.

It is traditional for Tunisian men and women to have at least one Hammam a week, normally on a Sunday. (Which explains their fabulous skin!) At the entrance I was handed a bucket, a tub of mud and an exfoliate mitt.

In the first room the heat was very high and I sat among the local Tunisian women dousing myself in buckets of warm water waiting for my skin to go soft.

I then moved into another steam room where I was laid down on a heated marble slab, vigorously exfoliated from head to toe, slathered in mud and finally pointed towards a shower.

All of this took place in rooms full of the hustle and bustle of Tunisian women chatting, laughing and clearly catching up on the village gossip.

There were no soft towels, no scented soap and no power showers, just genuine, back to basics, good old fashioned detoxing.

I emerged feeling like I had quite literally been reborn.

A Hammam, which lasts about two hours, with mud, mitt, and massage included, costs about 15 dinars, which is a miniscule £7.50. One hell of a bargain compared to UK prices.

Having refreshed both mind and body I felt it was time to hit the shops. Or, more precisely, the markets.

The Medina of Tunis was to be my first shopping experience. And what an experience it was.

The Medina, which dates back to the seventh century, is the largest in Tunisia - 540 acres to be exact - and you will need a whole day if want to explore the wonders of this place fully.

Here you will discover traders selling books, perfume, jewels, candles, spices, clothes, pottery and mosaics.

One word of advice: be prepared to haggle from the moment you step in.

Traders are well aware of the cash us Brits like to spend and they will try to pull a fast one. You can normally knock them down by at least 25 per cent, or more, so don't be fooled into paying over the odds.

Don't be put off by the prospect of haggling; by the end of the day you will find yourself purchasing the silliest of gifts just to try out your new haggling skills as it really does become quite a sport!

While in the Medina, if you are stopping for lunch then try and find the Dar Bel Hadj. Admittedly you may need a sat nav to get you there, as it is buried deep inside the back streets, but I promise the food and the venue is more than worth it.

If you are looking for something a little more modern then head for the Berges du Lac' shopping centre. Situated 10 minutes from the city centre you will fine brand names such as Hugo Boss, Benetton and Sisley with very attractive discounts of up to 30 per cent.

Having sampled the delights of Tunis, it was time for me to take my trip a little further to the East and via a 45 minute drive I soon arrived at Yasmine Hammamet.

This resort is five miles from Hammamet Central, Tunisia's biggest and longest established resort which is very popular with tourists and locals alike.

My hotel for the next two nights was the Hasdrubal Thalassa and Spa hotel.

Now I've always been one who enjoys a little luxury, but this hotel really takes the biscuit.

With 211 huge suites, a beach, outdoor and indoor pools and a number of spectacular restaurants it's no wonder Maria Carey stayed here during her world tour.

I spent two days immersing myself in the pure opulence of this hotel and boy did I feel great afterwards.

The spa facilities on offer are second to none. With a huge team of expertly skilled beauticians and masseurs you will be overwhelmed by the choice of treatments available.

May I recommend the Massage Mandara'. An all over body massage carried out by two masseurs who are specialised in the use of the forearms, elbows and thumbs.

Follow this up with an Apricot Rain' treatment, where you will be showered with warm salt water while your skin is polished with apricot and honey oils.

Don't be too surprised if your masseuse is of the opposite sex.

While I was a little taken aback when I found I was being pummelled by a young Tunisian man, he was very professional and I soon forgot as the combination of massage and jasmine oil took effect.

If you can tear yourself away from the treatment rooms for a little more shopping (and no-one will blame you if you don't!) then head towards the new Medina of Hammamet.

If haggling isn't your thing then you will probably prefer this market as all the prices are set.

It is relatively new and so doesn't hold quite the same charm as the Medina of Tunis but you will find some nice gifts to take home.

And it is a lovely place to sit and watch the world go past as you sit back and enjoy a glass of traditional mint tea.

Which, after all that pampering, is a perfect way to end a perfect break.

Tunisair has return flights from Heathrow to Tunis from £150pp (£120 low season), www.tunisair.com.tn Dar Said has twin/doubles from £100 per night based on two sharing including tax, breakfast costs £6.50, www.darsaid.com.tn Hasdrubal Thalassa & Spa Hotel, Yasmine Hammamet, has double junior suites (low season) from £115 per night including tax, www.hasdrubal-hotel.com Tunisian National Tourist Office, 020 7224 5598 www.cometotunisia.co.uk

Back